Shallots

Shallots can be grown from sets or from seeds. Shallots grown from sets can produce several new bulbs while shallots grown from seed usually produce one bulb. Seeds can be started indoors or sown directly outdoors as soon as the soil is workable in spring. Starting seeds indoors is helpful in areas with short seasons, or to get an early harvest.

After sowing the seeds, keep the seed starting mix consistently moist. A heat mat may be helpful for germination; the optimal temperature of the seed starting mix for germination is 70-80°F (21-27°C). Provide supplemental light as soon as seedlings emerge. Some growers trim the tops of the shallot seedlings to 4-5 inches (10-12 cm) prior to hardening off to encourage stockier plants that are easier to transplant.

Shallots prefer loamy, well-drained soil. Heavy clay soils that become waterlogged may lead to bulb rot. Work compost into the soil prior to planting. Shallot sets can be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring. Growing shallots from grocery store bulbs is not recommended. Shallot spacing can vary depending on the variety and whether they are being grown for one bulb or for many bulbs. If needed, separate sets into individual bulbs prior to planting. In USDA zones 5-10 shallot sets can also be planted in fall. Fall planted shallots can produce earlier harvests and larger bulbs, although they may be more prone to bolting than spring planted shallots. Plant shallot sets with the root side facing down and pointed side facing up. Spring planted shallot sets should be planted 0.5-1 inch (1-2.5 cm) deep. Fall planted sets can be planted 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep and can be deeply mulched for extra protection. Pull back excess mulch in spring around the last frost date leaving just enough to keep the soil covered.

Shallot seedlings can be transplanted in spring after they are hardened off and once the risk of heavy frosts has passed.

Shallots are heavy feeders, however excessive nitrogen can delay maturity and negatively affect bulb quality. Fertilize regularly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer. Stop watering and fertilizing shallots when the plants start to mature (when the tops start to yellow and fall over)- about 1-2 weeks before harvesting.

Shallots are usually cured for long-term storage. Some gardeners will cure shallots by leaving them on the ground in warm, sunny conditions but if possible it's preferable to dry them indoors in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. Ensure there is good airflow around each bulb. Bulbs are cured when the necks are completely dry; this will take about 1-2 weeks. Once cured the shallot stems can be braided or cut off.

Cured shallots can be stored in a cool, dark, dry place for up to several months. They should not be kept in the fridge unless they are cut or uncured. Use refrigerated shallots within a week or two. Do not store shallots in your basement if it is humid. Shallots shouldn't be stored with potatoes (or other produce), as moisture and gases can be released that negatively impact self life. To freeze shallots first peel and chop them then (optionally) blanch them in boiling water. Cool the shallots then freeze them in handy portion sizes in bags or airtight containers. Shallots can be kept frozen for up to several months.